Here's How

Q: My kitchen sink has a single faucet extension with one lever for on and off. You adjust the water temperature by turning the lever to either the left or right. This lever has become increasingly difficult to operate and the water flow is diminished. Does the entire faucet need to be replaced, or is there some way to repair the existing faucet?

A: This is not an unusual problem with an older faucet of your design.

Often this can be a simple plumbing fix. Inside your faucet is a cartridge that slides up and down when you push or pull the on/off lever.

More than likely, the cartridge is filled with mineral deposits or damaged and needs replacing. Shut off the water supply to the faucet and release the pressure in the lines by turning on the faucet. Remove the handle by removing the small screw usually positioned on the lower (underside) of the faucet handle beneath the spigot. Usually a hex wrench is the best tool for this procedure. Next, remove the cap on which the handled rested. Once the handle and cap have been removed, the cartridge should pull out easily.

Clean the cartridge, including the ceramic disk, plastic washer and O-ring (if not clean). Soaking it in white vinegar or a commercial product such as CLR will dissolve any mineral or hard water deposits that might be clogging these components. Replace plastic washer and/or O-ring if twisted or worn-out. Reinstall cartridge and make sure its two extensions fit with the two corresponding holes precisely. Put back the cap and reinstall the handle. Turn on the water supply and double check.

If you still have water flow problems, check the aerator assembly at the mouth of the spout. Unscrew and dismantle disks and washers within and clean these components. Reassemble.

If these cleaning processes fail to solve the problem, the cartridge is faulty. It can be replaced with a new one, readily available at a plumbing supply store or home center. Be sure and take the old one with you when shopping for a replacement to be sure you get the right fit.

A word of caution: If the faucet fixture is older or one of the less expensive models, you might consider replacing it with a new fixture. The cost of the new cartridge can be almost that of a new fixture, and dismantling of the faucet and making the described repairs is almost as much work as installing a new unit.

Q: We painted our galvanized metal gutter system to blend with the house coloring and roofing. It is flaking and peeling, even though we used a special metal paint. How can we correct this problem? The gutters look far worse than before we painted.

A: According to the Rohm and Hass Paint Quality Institute, improper surface preparation is often the cause of paint adhesion failure on metals.

Rust and dirt removal, application of a quality primer before painting and use of quality paints all help to assure success when painting galvanized gutters. It also is important to sand baked-on enamel finishes or glossy surfaces prior to paint application. Any rust on metal should be removed with a wire brush; then, an acrylic latex corrosion-resistant primer should be applied. One coat usually is sufficient. You also will have to remove all of the flaking and peeling paint and sand the surface smooth prior to priming and repainting. A metal primer should always be applied to unpainted galvanized metal before applying an oil-based or vinyl latex top coat.

The Rohm and Hass Paint Quality Institute provides information on remedies for common paint problems and will respond to your direct questions regarding paint problems. You can contact the institute at www.paintquality.com.

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