Remove and Replace

Installing a pre-hung exterior door can be as easy as 1-2-3

Weekend Projects Editor

If you've been adjusting to the little nuances that make your ancient, sagging, twisted exterior door limp along (to avoid having to replace it), consider the pre-hung options available that make the job much more DIY-friendly.

It's a good idea to go to a door showroom or a box store's door department to see what's available and what hardware is required. However, before you order, properly take exact measurements of the rough and finished openings, advises Michael Rankin, of MDR Precision-Built, 257 River Corner Road, Conestoga.

If at all possible, the casing on the inside should be popped off so you can see the rough framing. On the outside, measure from brick to brick on a doorway with a brick opening, and J-channel to J- channel for siding openings.

The needed width and height measurements run from the inside edge of the stud framing on both sides of the doorway opening, and from the lower edge of the rough header framing to the ground.

If the house is more than 30 years old, the rough opening could get a little tighter because plaster and lathe may have been used on the interior walls. Plaster walls often extended beyond the framing studs, while drywall conditions usually stop flush with the end of the vertical framing lumber.

"I recommend that homeowners take a picture inside and out and write the measurements they take right on the picture," said Rankin.

There is also the issue of jamb widths, which are 4 9/16-inches wide for a standard 2-by-4 stud wall, and 6 9/16-inches wide for a standard 2-by-6-inch stud wall. A good supplier will know what questions to ask if you've forgotten any measurements, according to Rankin.

"We need to know the rough opening, whether it's a swing-in or swing-out door, what hand it is, what kind of hardware will be used and which type of door," said Bob Rote, manager of J.C. Snavely and Sons, 555 N. Charlotte St.

Rote also noted that while the cost of a custom door is dramatically higher than a standard door, there are 7-foot and 8- foot doors that many manufacturers will cut to bigger-than-standard at little or no additional cost. A standard door is 6 feet 8 inches.

Rankin said to keep in mind that a storm door may be desired in the future, so investigate size availability for a storm door, too.

In the early 1900s, when my house was built, wood was the only option for the front door. While I love our front door - with its beveled glass and finely milled wooden details - it has become a bit of a maintenance issue. In two words: Warping and weatherstripping.

In addition to all species of wood, there are door material options such as fiberglass and steel, according to Rankin. Wood is high-maintenance in comparison.

"Wood is beautiful but if it's not protected with an overhang or porch, the sun becomes a culprit and causes wooden doors to warp and peel," he said.

Steel is strong but can dent. Fiberglass is nice because it is very stable and doesn't dent.

"I often suggest that they upgrade to a fiberglass, smooth-skin door, which has no texture to it and can be painted," said Rote. "There is also a fiberglass textured door, with an embossed texture that is stainable and resembles wood grain." Rote said that a fiberglass, smooth-skin, pre-hung door assembly can be found for $200 to $300. He said expense comes in when the homeowner gets into the higher-end glass in doors.

TIME TO DISASSEMBLE

Before anything is removed, Rankin suggests putting a centerline mark on the sill so you have something to work from. The new door will come pre-assembled with the threshold, jamb, hardware and hinges all attached.

If there is a doorbell, remove it. Then, carefully remove the existing casing and header from the inside and any brick mold that might be on the outside around the jamb. In most cases, the old trim will be reused, so be gentle with it.

When removing the old door, then jamb, remove everything. According to Rankin, you don't want any nails sticking out. "Push the nails in, pull them out, cut them off. You need a real clean, rough opening," he said.

MAKING IT NEW

Because the new assembly will be awkward and heavy, a second pair of hands will help set it into place. The frame of the new assembly will be flush with the inside finished wall. If the wall is out of plumb, modify it so the door can be plumb.

Rankin suggests placing the sill on a bead of exterior-grade adhesive caulk. Start by making sure the centerline of the new sill lines up with the centerline marked before the old door was taken out and then level the new sill. Shim it from the outside wherever needed.

Before fastening the assembly to anything, plumb the hinges. Starting at the bottom hinge and working up, shim just above and below the hinge. Pull back the weatherstripping adjacent to the back of the hinge and drive a screw through the new frame, into the shims and studs. Repeat that step for each hinge. By putting the screws under the weatherstripping, the screws are hidden.

Then, shut the door. There should be a thin, even margin between the door and the frame on both sides and top. To secure the jamb- side of the frame, start at the bottom and check it for plumb, shim behind the frame and make sure that the margin remains the same around the door. It is possible to pull or squeeze the jamb toward the framing or toward the new door. Check that the margin remains constant around the door as you put a screw near the bottom, on each side of the strike plate assembly and at the top of the jamb side.

Add one screw in the middle of the header, behind the weatherstripping, to keep it from shifting over time.

The door should be in place, held on all three sides with screws and the bottom with adhesive caulk.

Before putting the trim back on, insulate between the new jamb and the framing and bricks. Use batt insulation but don't pack it too tightly. Rankin warns against using expanding foam insulation because it tends to overdo the job and push the jambs inward.

Add the hardware. Sometimes the locksets must be chiseled out a little, depending on the lockset purchased, Rankin said.

In each of the hinges, the manufacturer routinely leaves one or two of the screws out. After the assembly is installed, longer screws can be put into the hinges so screws extend into the framing, which will keep the door from shifting. He suggests predrilling a pilot hole using a bit slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw before trying to drive the screw into position.

The final adjustment to the sill can be done by popping off the plugs that cover the adjustable sill screws. Starting closest to the hinged side, slowly turn the adjustable sill screw until the weatherstripping sweep just touches the sill. Work each adjustable sill screw until the sweep just brushes the sill and no light is seen under the door.

To complete testing for weather tightness, close the door and look for light, especially at the lower corners. Often, the manufacturer supplies weatherstrip pads to use in the bottom two corners of the jamb. Pull the weatherstripping back slightly, and position the self-adhesive squares just under the weatherstripping at the bottom two corners of both sides of the jamb to push the weatherstripping toward the door. This will tighten the seal.

Caulk, paint and add accessories, such as a kick plate or door knocker.

Job complete!

(c) 2007 Intelligencer Journal. Provided by ProQuest Information and Learning. All rights Reserved.