Q. I'm having my front and side steps replaced. They will be concrete and brick. I have heard of stamped concrete, but I don't know much about it. But I do know that it would be somewhat more expensive than plain concrete. What should I use? Price is not important. I just want it done right and good enough to last a long time.

A. Forget the stamped concrete. It is nice, but you can do better with concrete sides and brick risers and treads. This will look good and last a long time, but the mortar between the bricks, and any concrete surfaces, are susceptible to damage from salt. So, here is what I would do: Build the stoop and steps with concrete or brick sides and risers, and put in a thick slab of bluestone for each tread. It will resist salt, and it will outlast you and me. Me, at least.

Q. There are several big evergreen trees on my property line, but they belong to my neighbor. One looks like it is about to fall, either onto his house or mine. One already has fallen. Is there any way to control this? Can I cut any branches?

A. You can cut any branches overhanging your property, and it would be a courtesy to inform your neighbor. That will probably not do much good. Better yet, if you can determine the tree is a hazard, negotiate with the neighbor to take it down, and offer to share the cost.

Q. I'm having a tile guy install faux wood ceramic tile throughout my small condo. Problem is, I have a 110-pound mutt . I've heard horror stories about big doggies slipping on tile and throwing their hips out of whack. For this reason, I'd like to make my tile less slippery. I've read that there's something I can put on the surface but have heard that it "etches" the surface and makes the tile dull. Is there anything you can recommend that wouldn't change the appearance of my tile too much and is somewhat low-cost (as I'm on a budget)?

A. Making the tile less slippery will not help with the thundering clawed paws of your mutt, unless you can calm him down. So, you can keep the faux wood ceramic tile, particularly if it has a rough, not dead smooth, surface. Then put down area rugs with double-faced carpet tape.

The only other idea is to use the big square rough glazed Italian tiles instead of the faux wood. Then tape down the area rugs.

Q. I have a centrally located, three-sided unpainted brick fireplace that I think I want to paint an off-white. It is about 12- by-4 feet. How do I prepare the brick for painting? What paint should I use, and how many coats? Should the primer coat or any of the coats be watered down so as to penetrate the brick? Should I have a professional painter do the job? Once I paint, how do I keep it clean from smoke or soot? Last but most important, is painting the brick a bad decision? It looks great in all the magazines.

A. I wouldn't advise it, because ordinary brick is a good material, usually looks good, and can be kept clean. You can spruce up the brick by scrubbing it with detergent and water, and sealing it with a masonry sealer. It looks depressing because it does not reflect light, so you can put a little more light on it.

Everything looks good in the magazines. The designers who dream up these wonderful rooms care only how they look. They don't care if the brick is painted or will get dirty or anything else.

If you really, really, really want to paint it, wash it with detergent and water and apply two thin coats of a flat latex wall paint or a latex solid color stain. No need for a primer, no need for watering down paint, just two thin coats will do.

I don't recommend painting brick because some day in the future, someone will look at that painted brick and think, I'm going to restore the brick. He or she will face a daunting, miserable, uncomfortable, thankless task.

* Write Peter Hotton at the Boston Globe, Boston, Mass. 02107, or e-mail him at photton@globe.com. Hotton is available 1 to 6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call (617) 929-2930. Hotton also chats on line about house matters 2 to 3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to Boston.com.

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