Kitchen Products Review: CooktopsHot Tops: Manufacturers fuel their latest cooking surfaces with a powerful dose of gourmet features.

  • Source: BUILDING PRODUCTS Magazine
  • Publication date: 2005-05-01
  • In a survey conducted by the National Kitchen & Bath Association, more than 40 percent of its responding members cited that product innovation combined with a more knowledgeable consumer were driving forces in their business. Indeed, these statistics would appear to be as relevant for new-home construction as they are for remodeling, where the kitchen and its appliances have become a priority in the selection and design process.

    “Home buyers are becoming more sophisticated every day,” says U.S. Home's Las Vegas design studio manager, Vivian Narssa, whose customer base ranges from move-ups to empty nesters. Influenced by the increasing popularity of television's Food Network channel in addition to the wealth of information available on the Internet and in the latest design and cooking publications, she notes, “They're more interested in commercial-type applications only found in restaurants a few years ago.”

    Not surprisingly, beefy pro-style ranges are de rigueur at the extreme high end. However, Narssa—whose company has a national partnering agreement with GE—finds that most of her clients prefer cooktops for the extra cabinet space they provide as well as for their unique designs and easy-care surfaces that eliminate the notorious dirt-catching crevices—inevitable where ranges meet counters. In particular, “They like flat glass tops, high-output burners, precise simmers, and dishwasher-safe grates,” she adds.

    Taking their cues from this growing appetite for style, power, and convenience, manufacturers have enhanced their offerings—both gas and electric—with numerous user-friendly features. According to Jerry Wolff, GE marketing manager of cooking products, “The trends we're seeing today are intensifying in terms of style and the consumer demand for versatility. They want to be able to boil faster, get great simmer performance, and use bigger cookware.”

    To that end, aesthetics and utility are the focus of the new GE Profile offerings, which include a 36-inch stainless steel five-burner gas model equipped with an 18,000-BTU dual-flame stacked burner capable of bringing water to a rapid boil then turning down to a low cooking temperature of 140 degrees Fahrenheit. It also features a gas safety lock-out, deep spill pan, and dishwasher-safe die-cast knobs and continuous grates.

    Its electric equivalent in black glass has a 3,000-watt 12-/9-/6-inch tri-ring element and melt/simmer options essential for delicate preparations such as softening chocolate.

    “Our core customer wants an appliance to make their life easier,” says Whirlpool's director of public relations Audrey Reed-Granger. To comply, the company's new electric lineup features glass ceramic surfaces with dual-ring and bridge elements, and touch controls for ease of use and cleaning. Gas models in porcelain enamel feature full-width cast iron grates for pot maneuverability.

    Maytag has taken a similar approach by incorporating such high-end attributes as cast iron continuous grates, precision burner controls, a Power Boost burner, and 650-BTU simmer setting into several basic gas models in both 30- and 36-inch glass and porcelain enamel.

    Deluxe maker Miele, meanwhile, is catering to small spaces with an efficiently designed four-burner gas unit in high-grade stainless steel that measures a neat 23 1/16 inches by 20¼ inches. Dacor, too, brings top-of-the-line features down to size with its 30-inch all-gas four-burner cooktop that boasts the same SimmerSear burner as its popular larger model.

    For the tightest installations where electric is the fuel of choice, Kenyon's diminutive two-burner Horizon Lite-Touch 2 glass ceramic cooktop is packed with one 9-/5-inch dual-ring and one single element, along with advanced infrared controls that are not affected by moisture and humidity.

    FREEDOM OF CHOICE

    The good news is that there's a size and design loaded with advanced cooking capabilities for every budget and preference. Some prefer a more minimalist integrated look even when space is not a commodity. Sheri Sauls, director of purchasing for the WCI Communities Palm Beach Division, especially likes the newest streamlined cooktops, such as Kenmore's European-style 30-inch, four-burner gas-on-glass with its sculptural controls, dishwasher-safe grates, and sealed burners.

    “They blend seamlessly into the appliance package,” she feels, “which is far superior in our market to the bulkier versions that take up an entire island.”

    Yet at the high end, the professional style shows no signs of abating. “Our clients still want that big restaurant look,” claims David Heigl, vice president of Lincolnshire, Ill.-based Orren Pickell Designers & Builders. In particular, he adds, they like the griddle and grill options.

    Noteworthy introductions in this category come from several sources. The Grand Veneur from Morice, a Lyon, France-based manufacturer available through BKE Supply, spans an impressive 71 inches and can be custom configured to the customer's specifications with the likes of a French plate, high-powered gas burners and/or electric elements, an electric steamer, or a deep fryer.

    Another newcomer, the 36-inch six-burner Vintage Professional in polished stainless steel, also from BKE, offers a basic package. But it does provide all the essential bells and whistles of this genre—20,000-, 18,000-, 15,000-, and 12,000-BTU burners, an ultra-low simmer, angled control panel, indicator lights, and easy-care spill pan—for under $2,000.

    The Electrolux Icon brand brings this super-charged look to the electric front with a substantial stainless steel six-element, 36-inch slide-in, complete with 4,400 watts of power, large professional knobs, and concentric ring and bridge elements.

    Familiar faces include Jade with a fresh 24-inch-deep flush-to-cabinet design for its 36- to 48-inch gas cook-tops, and Thermador boasting improved 15,000-BTU five-point burners providing full pan heat distribution as well as an extra-low simmer.

    Upping the ante on style and utilitarian appeal—all the while echoing that semi-pro feel—Wolf's newest 30-and 36-inch gas cooktops sport a lower, sleeker profile and dual-stacked burners all equipped with a True Simmer feature.

    Meanwhile, Caldera remains true to its technological expertise with its first stainless steel unit featuring grates designed for improved heat control, a safer electronically enhanced ignition system that minimizes the occurrence of annoying clicks, the ability to power up to 18,000 BTUs and down to a gentle 150-degree F cooking temperature, and an easy-to-clean glass control panel with graphics screened on the underside so they won't wear away.

    BRIDGING THE GAP

    “Cooking enthusiasts will always choose gas [cooktops] over electric when they can,” says Brian Maynard, KitchenAid brand director, integrated marketing. “For one it is more efficient and it is more reactive. It's on when it's on and it's off when it's off.”

    For that reason, KitchenAid is constantly fine-tuning its gas products with innovations such as a durable clear, protective stainless steel finish that resists fingerprints and heat discoloration. In addition, Pro Line's latest entrée bends toward more contemporary tastes with a lower, built-in profile that has been outfitted with two 17,000-BTU burners and an invertible wok ring that reverses to become a traditional grate.

    Not to be outdone, KitchenAid's electric product team upgraded its radiant Ceran offering with Smart Knob control technology that provides consistent, even heat distribution and precise settings. Triple- and dual-ring plus bridge elements accommodate all manner of cookware. “It's not going to be exactly like gas, but it's closer than it has been in the past,” notes Maynard.

    Likewise, Jenn-Air has improved 3,000-watt CustomControl digital dual- and triple-radiant elements on several new 36-inch glass ceramic electric models that maintain much more accurate temperatures than the standard—with near-gas-like responsiveness, the firm contends. This is due to a highly sensitive device called a thermistor under the glass that reacts instantly to temperature selection. Paired with infinite touch controls, says Jenn-Air market education manager Gary Stoner, “you have the ability to take it very high or very low and it's all temperature controlled.”

    In situations where the cost and fuel source are no object, Gaggenau's Vario 400 built-in modular system fills the bill with its 15-inch mix-and-match gas and electric components comprising glass Ceran gas burners and radiant elements, a gas-fired wok burner, an electric grill, a deep fryer, and a steamer. For those who do more than take-out Asian, there's a Teppan Yaki, a two-zone flat griddle-like stainless steel element designed for high-heat searing, and a 12,000-watt induction wok (see “Induction Reignites”).

    “Cooktops are increasingly popular with people who love to cook and entertain,” says Maynard. And, ultimately, it's technologies like these that are generating interest and excitement among home buyers.

    Builder Narssa couldn't agree more. “Manufacturers have done a good job creating the demand through new products and their applications.”

    Vintage

    Vintage. This 36-inch six-burner Professional gas cooktop in polished stainless steel is outfitted with one 20,000-, two 15,000-, and two 12,000-BTU burners in addition to a special ultra-low burner capable of maintaining a minimum cooking temperature of 142 degrees F. Additional features include an angled control panel, textured spill tray, blue indicator lights, and gap-free integration with the counter. 800-998-8966. www.vintage-grills.com.

    Thermador

    Thermador. Ever improving, the Professional series 48-inch gas cooktop showcases the company's 15,000-BTU brass five-point Star burner said to surpass previous versions with enhanced power output and even heat distribution. A patented ExtraLow simmer feature electronically cycles the flame on and off for precise control at the lowest temperatures. To accommodate additional culinary tasks, grill and griddle options are also available. 800-656-9226. www.thermador.com.

    Caldera. Engineered to please both cook and bottom line, the SSK-365 36-inch (shown) and SSK-305 30-inch gas cooktops are made of 304-grade stainless steel. They feature a variety of burner sizes and outputs from a powerful 18,000-BTU center burner to a gentle 6,000-BTU front burner. Full-surface grates, ergonomic knobs, intuitive controls, and electronic ignition and reignition are included. 800-725-7711. www.calderacorp.com.

    Kenmore

    Kenmore. Taking its cues from the Continent, this stylish European-style 30-inch four-burner gas cooktop (model #37172) features sealed gas burners on a sculptural easy-care black glass surface, dishwasher-safe porcelain-coated iron grates that resist burned-on food, and a variety of power options ranging from 5,000 to 10,500 BTUs. 800-349-4358. www.kenmore.com.

    Jenn-Air

    Jenn-Air. A notable upgrade, the new 36-inch frameless easy-care black glass electric cook-top offers digital CustomControl cooking for optimum temperature management, and near-gas responsiveness that ranges from a bare minimum to a powerful 3,000 watts for the equivalent of 15,000 BTUs or higher. Additional improvements include a Custom Choice 6-/9-/12-inch triple or 9-/12-inch dual radiant element, one of the largest available, and infinite electronic touch controls. 800-536-6247. www.jennair.com.

    Jade. Direct descendents of the company's legendary restaurant cooking surfaces, the new 36- and 48-inch gas cooktops sport home-friendly aesthetics such as a 24-inch-deep flush-to-cabinet design; ergonomic infinite stainless steel controls; cast iron burner caps that diffuse heat

    Jade

    for low simmer temperatures and even heating; and mix-and-match commercial-style burners, grill, and griddle ranging from 12,500 to 18,000 BTUs. 866-820-9401. www.jadeappliances.com.

    Electrolux

    Electrolux. The substantial 36-inch slide-in Icon electric E36EC75DSS cooktop comes equipped with many of the commercial-style features typically associated with gas models—a stainless steel body, large professional knobs on a beveled front panel, and a six-element configuration capable of handling multiple pan shapes and sizes at up to 4,400 watts. Accessories include a griddle plate plus optional 9-inch stainless steel backsplash and black knobs. 877-435-3287. www.electroluxusa.com.

    Miele

    Miele. Minimalist in both silhouette and dimension, the KM360G four-burner gas cooktop measures a neat 23 1/16 inches long by 20¼ inches wide. Made from high-grade stainless steel, the unit features one 3,500-BTU auxiliary burner, two 6,000-BTU “normal” burners, and one 10,200-BTU fast burner. Continuous grates ease the manipulation of pots and pans, while auto reignition and shutoff features provide safe operation. 800-843-7321. www.miele.com.

    Wolf

    Wolf. Available in both four-burner 30-inch and five-burner 36-inch models, the company's newest gas cooktops offer dual-stacked 15,000-, 12,000-, and 9,200-BTU burners, all equipped with a True Simmer feature that holds temperatures as low as 200 degrees F, and one with a True Melt feature capable of maintaining 165 degrees F. Low-profile continuous grates, backlit control knobs, and auto reignition are convenient and safe additions. 800-222-7820. www.subzero-wolf.com.

    Whirlpool

    Whirlpool. Enhanced with a host of consumer-driven features, the newest introductions from the Whirlpool Gold gas cooktop line are marked by improved functionality and appearance. Available in a clean black, white, or biscuit porcelain enamel, they offer sealed gas burners in a range of power outputs, versatile full-width cast iron grates for easy maneuverability of pots and pans during meal preparation, and central front controls. 800-253-1301. www.whirlpool.com.

    Viking

    Viking. The new 30- and 36-inch Professional induction cooktops are cool, clean alternatives to commercial gas burners. Requiring ferrous metal pans, induction elements utilize electromagnetic energy that reacts with the iron in the cookware transforming it into the actual heat source. The result: instantaneous gas-like performance. All-induction or combination induction/radiant heat versions are available. 888-845-4641. www.vikingrange.com.

    Diva de Provence

    Diva de Provence. Modified for the home, the DDP-5 36-inch induction cooktop was adapted from this French manufacturer's commercial model and boasts the same 90 percent cooking efficiency and gas-like responsiveness. Five cooking zones include a central dual element said to accommodate pans up to 14 inches in diameter. Touch controls have 12 power levels with three presets and built-in protection against overheating and spillovers. 888-852-8604. www.divainduction.com.

    Küppersbusch

    Küppersbusch. Elegant and efficient, the EKI 807.0 30-inch induction cooktop is one of four models including an induction wok from this cutting-edge German manufacturer. Advanced features include nine-level power sensor touch controls, pan detection, an automatic safety cutoff, a child safety lock, and a power boost that automatically brings the temperature up to maximum then back down to the desired simmer level. 800-459-0844. www.kuppersbuschusa.com.

    Dacor

    Dacor. Addressing the need for high-end appliances in small spaces, the 30-inch All-Gas PGM304 cooktop boasts the same SimmerSear burner, ranging from 650 to 15,000 BTUs, as the company's larger model. Available in stainless steel, the PGM304 features capacious continuous grates, a continuous spill pan for easy cleanup, brass valves to maintain precise flame levels, and automatic reignition of the flame if it is extinguished. 800-772-7778. www.dacor.com.

    KitchenAid

    KitchenAid. The Pro Line KGCV566R 36-inch five-burner gas cooktop sports two powerful 17,000-BTU burners, one topped by an InstaWok ring grate that supports a standard pan on one side and reverses to hold a large wok on the other. Available in fingerprint-resistant stainless steel and Meteorite, this versatile appliance also features continuous grates and the ability to maintain extra-low cooking temperatures. 800-422-1230. www.kitchenaid.com.

    GE

    GE. Sleek, semi-pro styling distinguishes Profile's stainless steel five-burner built-in gas cooktop outfitted with an innovative 18,000-BTU dual-flame stacked burner—literally two burners in one capable of bringing water to a rapid boil and turning down to a low cooking temperature of 140 degrees F. Additional features include a safety lockout, said to be a first for gas models; sturdy dishwasher-safe knobs and grates; and a deep spillover. 800-626-2000. www.geappliances.com.

    Kenyon

    Kenyon. A functional solution to small and secondary kitchens, the two-burner Horizon Lite-Touch 2 ceramic electric cooktop boasts such state-of-the-art features as a dual 9-/5-inch element, safety lockout and automatic shutoff, heat and fault indicators with audible alerts, a hot indicator light, and durable infrared Lite-Touch controls said to be highly resistant to moisture and humidity. 860-664-4906. www.kenyonappliances.com.

    Gaggenau

    Gaggenau. The new super-sized 15-inch Vario 400 modular cooktop system boasts pro-style capacity and power. Available in stainless steel or aluminum, individual units comprise electric, gas, and induction elements including the likes of a 12,000-watt induction wok and Japanese-style Teppan Yaki, a flat griddle-like stainless steel element. 800-828-9165. www.gaggenau-usa.com.

    Morice

    Morice. The luxuriously outfitted 71-inch Grand Veneur cooktop allows discerning home chefs to select from such custom options as an 18,700-BTU central gas burner topped by a cast iron French plate, high-powered gas burners or electric elements, an electric 18-liter steamer, or 3.5-liter deep fryer. Handcrafted in Lyon, France, each unit is made to order in a variety of high-gloss enamel colors and trim finishes. 800-998-8966. www.morice-usa.com.

    Maytag

    Maytag. Comprising numerous attributes typical of more upscale models, the MGC5536 five-burner, 36-inch porcelain-enamel gas cooktop is geared for family-style cooking with its sealed surface burners, pilotless electronic ignition, continuous DuraClean cast-iron grates and lift-off burner caps, precision-set burner controls, 12,500-BTU Power Boost burner, and 650-BTU simmer setting. Color options include white, bisque, black, and stainless steel. 800-688-9900. www.maytag.com.


    Induction Reignites

    After an all-too-long hiatus (according to devotees), induction cooking is about to re-enter our kitchen vocabulary.

    Favored by professional chefs as a cool, clean alternative to commercial gas burners, induction elements utilize electromagnetic energy that reacts with the iron in ferrous metal cook-ware—which includes many popular stainless steel brands—transforming it into the actual heat source. The result: instantaneous gas-like performance, plus markedly reduced heat in the kitchen and on the cooking surface because heat is created directly in the pan and does not escape into the room.

    “From a convenience standpoint, induction gives the responsiveness of gas,” says Sue Bailey, Viking lead product manager for major appliances, whose company is at the forefront of the new residential units. “They can boil and hold a true simmer, and the clean-up is phenomenal.”

    In fact, Bailey adds, it is faster and more fuel-efficient than gas. “It takes about five minutes and fifteen seconds for a quart of water to come to a boil on one of our gas ranges with a 15,000-BTU burner,” she explains. “To bring the same quart of water to boil on a large induction element takes about two minutes and twenty-two seconds.”

    To date, induction cooktops are available in two-, four-, and five-element configurations on black glass ceramic from Diva de Provence, Küppersbusch, and Viking, as well as combination induction/radiant models from the latter, and induction wok components from Gaggenau and Küppersbusch.

    Could this be the wave of the future? Custom builder David Heigl of Orren Pickell Designers & Builders believes that induction will have its effect with well-to-do clients, perhaps even in the gas-centric Midwest.